Traditional Entertainment in Thailand

Modern Thailand may have adopted many foreign pursuits, from Hollywood movies to karaoke, but traditional entertainments still flourish. Although the graceful movements of classical khon dance-dramas survive mainly as tourist shows, the grassroots following of such typically Thai obsessions as muay thai boxing remains as strong as ever. High-spirited sanuk (fun) is an all-embracing activity, even on the most serious of occasions such as religious festivals. Indulging in the local passions is essential to understanding life in Thailand, whether it be a song-filled night out at a bar or folk music club, a colorful temple fair, a classical concert, a takraw game, or watching the latest Thai movie.

Information Sources

Details of the major events and festivals throughout Thailand are provided in a booklet available from TAT offices. For more detailed entertainment listings, Metro is not only the best source for what’s going on in the capital, but also provides useful information on events in the rest of the country. It is also worthwhile consulting the English language newspapers, the Bangkok Post and the Nation, and the many free tourist magazines. Good hotels should also be able to provide information.

Booking Tickets

Major hotels and travel agencies can book tickets for cultural shows and sports events. Alternatively, you can buy tickets direct from venues or, for major events, from Central Chidlom at 1027 Ploenchit Road, Asia Books and at the ticket counters in all branches of Robinson’s department stores.

Traditional Theater and Dance

Watching the stylized royal all-male masked dance khon is like seeing the murals of Wat Phra Kaeo come to life. Sadly, popular interest in the mostly Ramakien-based dance-dramas is waning, and performances of khon, and of the equally elaborate but less formal lakhon, are becoming increasingly rare. In even greater danger of extinction are the hun lek marionette shows.

The most atmospheric place to watch traditional dance is at Sanam Luang on the evening of royal ceremonies such as the king’s birthday or funeral. At such times dozens of stages provide entertainment long into the night. Complete performances can last days, so abridged scenes are chosen for shows at the National Theater (indoors on the last Saturday and Sunday of the month; outdoors every Saturday and Sunday from December to May) and the hi-tech Royal Chalermkrung Theater in Bangkok and at the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center.

khantoke Traditional Dinner

Countless tourist dinner shows in the major cities and resorts offer bills of dances from all over the country. Chiang Mai’s famous khantoke dinners, including dancing, can be experienced at the Khantoke Palace, Khum Kaew Khantoke Palace, and Lanna Khantoke. Reliable venues in Bangkok include the Rose Garden and Silom Village, while the Oriental’s Sala Rim Nam restaurant presents authentic khon.

Lakhon can also be witnessed at Bangkok’s Lak Muang near Sanam Luang, and the Erawan Shrine, where devotees make merit by paying the dancers to perform.

The most widespread dance drama is likay, a regular feature of temple fairs, festivals and TV. Its bawdy, slapstick, and satirical elements have allowed it to retain a popular contemporary following. The ancient equivalent from the South of Thailand is manora.

Still widespread in Malaysia and Indonesia, nang talung shadow puppet shows survive only in the Deep South at Phatthalung and Nakhon Si Thammarat. Performances of nang talung at local festivals can run all night, but an hour or two is usually enough for most tourists. Even rarer are performances of nang yai, in which enormous, flat leather puppets are manipulated by a team of puppeteers.